How to choose your perfume

“Feminine, sensual, alluring …”. If you are drawn to sleep by such romance, we are looking for our new perfume together in uncharted territories.

Как выбрать свой парфюм

The man in the house

Even those who devotedly and selflessly love infinitely feminine long dresses (the choice is huge — from Valentino to Russian Alexander Terekhov, A la Russe, Vilshenko) and wear princess jewelry Axenoff Jewelry to them, often prefer openly masculine fragrances. This is not a local trend — it is followed by advanced girls all over the world. “I don’t like gentle girlish compositions at all. And I just can’t stand floral perfumes,” says the famous jeweler Aurelia Biedermann. — As long as I can remember, my father always wore a Vetiver, Carven. Now his passion has passed to me. Sometimes I cheat on him with brutal Eau d’Orange Verte, Hermes, Acqua di Parma and Bonpoint.” In response to this, perfumer Sofia Groisman explains: “Men’s fragrances are usually clean and fresh, while women’s are heavy and sweet. And at the same time, the first ones boldly experiment with sexual notes, adding tobacco, smoke and spices.” Today, the most popular players on two fronts are Terre d’Hermes, Hermes; Tobacco Vanille, Tom Ford; Palissandre d’Or, Aedes de Venustas; Sycomor, Les Exclusifs de Chanel; Gaiac Mystique, Givenchy. They are not advertised as unisex, the decision was spontaneously made by consumers themselves. By the way, loving men’s fragrances is half the job, you still need to be able to wear them properly. “A white shirt, jeans and heels are suitable for the composition “for him”, — Givenchy olfactologist Francoise Donche shares her experience. “But with a suit and with any woolen fabric, the strong notes of leather, wood, tobacco become too heavy and straightforward.” By the way, you can look for your new fragrance “with a masculine character” in the Ralph Laurent Collection, which has just been released, with the help of which the designer shared his impressions of travel and favorite places (of course, with the participation of parumers — Carlos Benaim, Kalisa Becker and Harry Fremont).

1/7Terre d’Hermes, Hermes

A thin layer

Not all perfumers are delighted with the question of how to mix fragrances correctly. It seems to them that they have already put everything they need in one bottle, and your co-creation looks like disrespect for their art. However, there are brands that have made layering perfume notes on top of each other their philosophy and corporate identity. A sample of English taste Jo Malone recommends using two or even three compositions at the same time. Of the brand’s latest innovations, Orris & Sandalwood and Black Cedarwood & Juniper are worth noting. Demeter compact vials are literally created for “paired performances”. Etro recommends mixing their Ambra and Paisley fragrances, and Maison Francis Kurkdjian advises wearing Aqua Universalis and Absolue Pour le Matin together. A very interesting story has also appeared in Russia. A very young Natalia Onufrieva, who graduated from the Grasse Institute of Parfumery, created the laboratory of individual fragrances Opera & Studio and launched the project Bar by Opera & Studio. Those who want to create their own deeply personal fragrance come to her studio and immerse themselves in the world of desires or memories, while under the guidance of Natalia they listen to various perfume bases and chords. At the exit, there is a box in the hands, divided into six cells, in which the selected chords are stored, and an instruction with the rules for combining them with each other. All this can and should be mixed directly on yourself, depending on the mood or occasion. From the hot news on this topic, it is impossible not to say about the “leather” collection La Collection des Cuirs from Elie Saab. In it, the classic skin theme is played out in four versions: Cuir Ylang, Cuir Bourbon, Cuir Patchouli and Siig Absolue. B although all these compositions are original and completely self-sufficient, they can be combined with mono-fragrances from the line of high perfumery La Collection des Essense, Elie Saab.

The general basic rule for mixing perfumes allows you to layer two simple fragrances consisting of a small number of notes on top of each other, or add a fragrance built around one dominant note to a complex composition that already has this note in the olfactory pyramid. 

1/5La Collection des Essense, Elie Saab.

Just a drop

Previously, oils were associated with street vendors and antique shops, but gradually the viscous elixirs lost their grunge reputation. More concentrated and opening from the warmth of the skin, they have become a favorite form of fragrances for perfumer Francis Kurkjian. “By using oils instead of sprays, I can create a longer plume,” he says. — Take, for example, the woody citrus Elixir Aqua Universalis Forte in roller packaging. It contains about 20% more fragrance than eau de toilette and stays on the skin much longer.” In the East, women put several saturated amber drops on their skin right in the morning and walk shrouded in a viscous mist of flowers and spices. Today, the “oil” fever has swept the entire perfume world. It’s beautiful, thoroughbred, fascinating and very sexy. Of course, it is worth paying attention to the concentrated rose, oud, musk and amber oils of Les Elixires Precieux, Dior, which reveal the fragrances of the Privee Christian Dior niche collection in a new way. In the same row of “delights” are four oils from Carolina Herrera, which allow you to create an infinite number of aroma variations within the Confidential, Carolina Herrera collection.

But you should not go to extremes. Oils sound best in the evening in combination with silk or, conversely, heavy velvet and massive oriental jewelry. Business style and casual are poorly combined with them, but glamour and richly decorated luxury are good. 

1/4 Privee Christian Dior Collection

Better less

What is the smell of a perfume that does not smell of anything? (And who will wear it?) Surprisingly, there is a huge demand for such fragrances. “Almost 70% of women’s perfumes are floral. And what about the other 30%? Fresh or sweet? — says perfumer Dominique Ropillon. “Not exactly. There are niche compositions that merge so much with the skin that they can be called “antiparfums”.” These are fragrances with notes reminiscent of expensive laundry, for example, such as weightless L’Eau, Serge Lutens, or Blanche, Byredo — they are as transparent as their names. Due to the fact that this part of the perfume world attracts esotericists, they are called as something that does not exist in nature — Not a Perfume, Juliette Has a Gun, or Molecule 01, Escentric Molecules. In principle, they are very easy to wear, but most often the background for phantom fragrances is an individual style honed to the smallest detail with memorable details and characteristic makeup. If the fashionable handwriting is still being formed, and perfume tastes tend to simplicity, then it may be worth paying attention to compositions built around one or two notes. Do you remember how everyone suddenly fell in love with oud melodies? Today, citrus, juniper, pine needles and sea breeze have been added to them.

1/3Blanche, Byredo

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