A dress with a scent: the past and present of a cult, but controversial thing

Why controversial? It’s simple: even now there are people who believe that wearing a “bathrobe on the street” is the height of indecency. We tell them why they are wrong, and show how the stars wear it.

Платье с запахом: прошлое и настоящее культовой, но спорной вещи

Paris Hilton, Pipa Middleton (2018), Twiggy (1968)

Every designer has at least one iconic thing with which his name will be constantly associated. You yourself know what it’s about: when they talk about Coco Chanel, a little black dress invariably pops up in memory; when about Christian Dior — the famous jacket bar, when about Demna Gvasalia – a T—shirt of an employee of the DHL postal company. When it comes to Diana von Furstenberg, there can be only one association — a dress with a smell.

Платье с запахом: прошлое и настоящее культовой, но спорной вещи

Diane von Furstenberg and her famous dresses

It is believed that the title of the inventor belongs to Furstenberg, but fashion historians disagree with this statement. Richard Martin, a former curator of the Costume Institute, is confident that this silhouette has already “been deeply embedded in the American design tradition.” During the Great Depression, ordinary American women fell in love with Hooverettes brand dresses, noticeably resembling ordinary home… dressing gowns. More than 40 years later, in the autumn-winter collection 72-73, Diana von Furstenberg reanimates a long-forgotten silhouette, simultaneously clearing it of the glory of the housewives’ uniform — so if the glory of the author of the dressing gown does not belong to her, then the fame of the popularizer belongs undividedly. The designer says that she was inspired to create the dress by the divorce and … the desire to liberate and encourage a woman to enjoy the sexual freedom they have achieved.

Платье с запахом: прошлое и настоящее культовой, но спорной вещи

This is about what dressing gowns of the 30s looked like

Since then, more than 40 years have passed, and now a dress with a smell is a basic model and an indispensable attribute of a full—fledged wardrobe. It can be anything: short and long, colorful and monochrome, with long sleeves and without them at all — the choice is unlimited. For those who are afraid of unexpected and very spicy situations, designers have come up with dresses with an imitation of the smell: in appearance, they also have oblique draperies with fixation at the waist, but in fact the dress inside is securely sewn. Stars choose such a “robe” for a variety of occasions: even for a leisurely walk around the city, even on the red carpet. Amber Heard, Kate Middleton and other heroines of our selection know how to look gorgeous in it even under the flashes of hundreds of photographers.

1/15 Kate Middleton

Of course, the robe dress itself cannot be a trend. But specific models — even as. If you are planning a purchase, we recommend paying attention to “tea” dresses in a small floral print, which can and should be combined with voluminous cardigans and massive shoes. A healthy competition for them will be laconic dresses with unobtrusive geometric prints (such will always be relevant) or an original abstraction: postmodernism in art is one of our most favorite fashion trends.

Which brands to look for

1/11Terekhov Girl

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